Marfy Free Jacket Pattern - The End!

Back in April this year I wrote Part 1 of the Marfy Free Jacket Pattern.  It is now officially Spring and I'm finally at the end - writing the blog post!

After I got the muslin fit to where I was comfortable - that alone was a 5 week journey, on 25 April I got to cut my real fabric.  While that sounds quite straight forward, sadly not because of my fabric choice.  I bought this lovely wool coating from The Fabric Store - it's so soft and bouncy with a medium weave - so it easily frayed but not so much that it was uncontrollable.

I cut all pieces on a single layer, carefully ensuring I had all the squares in the right places for each piece.  While this was a little time consuming it wasn't too hard - the pattern pieces didn't have any seam allowances, so where the pattern piece fell was indeed the stitching seam.

Pattern matching at centre back

After I thread traced and cut the fabric it then sat on the shelf for weeks while I tried to decide how I was going to construct it.  I couldn't decided to make a quilted Chanel inspired jacket (LFJ) or whether to take a more tailored approach.  This was my too hard point - I couldn't see how my fabric could be tailored but I could see how it would work as a LFJ; but I couldn't see how the collar would work if it wan't tailored ... *brain explode*

Finally, I decided to wait for the sew-along to get to this point, and take some wise direction from Leisa.  There it was, tailor the jacket!  Part of me was jumping up and down because I could sew the lining together using the machine and then insert, rather than having to hand-stitch each seam of the lining as is required for a LFJ; another part of me was still unsure how the pile of this fabric would behave.  What the hell ... just do it!

Leisa wrote this amazing post about pad stitching the collar.  This was like a light bulb moment!  The collar would behave differently depending on the direction of the stitches.  I decided that I wanted the back of my collar to stand up and the front to have a beautiful soft roll.

Pad stitching a stand up collar

The rest of the jacket came together pretty nicely from here.  I used a medium weight hair canvas for the front and collar which followed through to the bottom of the arm pit.  The shoulders are reinforced with a second layer of hair canvas and the bottom of the jacket has a 2" lining of silk organza.  I also draft a back stay from some scrap cotton lawn that I had lying around (sorry no pictures of that one).

The sleeve of the jacket is a one piece, which is okay, but next time I would definitely convert to a two piece and add some elbow ease.

inside of jacket

For the lining I chose this lovely silk satin from The Fabric Store - yeah it was pricey but the weight of the lining matched the jacket beautifully.  I constructed the lining using the sewing machine but then inserted it into the jacket by hand - a lovely wee fell stitch :-)

Now it is 29 June and I'm finished the construction of the jacket, only to be faced with my next dilemma ... what trim to use.  I initially thought I would use a sold black grossgain or satin ribbon and attach very close to the edge.  I bought enough of both to try, but once I pinned it in place I didn't like it - it was just too heavy for the jacket.  So once more, the jacket just hung around waiting for me to make the next decision.  Finally I settled on these small round fabric bobble buttons  - they're just giant knots really.  I was going to place a loop on one side so the jacket would close, but couldn't get that to work.  I ditched the loops and just went with the buttons, so for now the jacket doesn't close and I'm okay with that.

I also decided that the jacket didn't need the patch pockets - less is more!  I love it :-)

I finally finished the jacket on 19 July and have worn it a few times since - I never really know how I feel about anything until I've worn it a few times.  It is super warm - most definitely a winter jacket.

Would I make this pattern again - you bet I would.  Next time I would:

• add a wee bit more ease to the back, possibly return the princess seams on the back to the original size 46
• widen the arm at the bicep and convert the sleeve to a two piece pattern
• lengthen jacket to original length of pattern - this version is 3" shorter

I've never owned a jacket even remotely similar to this, so I feel real grown up when I wear it!

Way more photos over on my Flickr -->

Silk Kielo Wrap

Named is a Finnish indie pattern company that is all about clean lined simplicity with some interesting design detail. The Kielo wrap dress caught might attention with it's interesting take on a wrap but without adding any bulk and remaining very feminine.

Back in April when I made this we were heading into winter down-under but I was still keen to get a Kielo into my wardrobe that I could wear at least during autumn and spring.  So rather than a maxi dress of the original pattern design, I decided on a long top that I could wear with a pair of leggings and a jacket/cardigan would be more season appropriate.

I downloaded the PDF pattern from the Named website and assembled.  I made a couple of adjustments to the pattern:  the first was the obvious reduction in the length and the other was the dropping of the bust dart by 1/2", which is normal for me with most patterns.  I didn't do a muslin for this, but rather did a very basic tissue fit.

Based on the Named size chart I cut a size US8, purely based on the bust measurement.  This was spot on!  The top is quite fitted and is very well designed with the bust dart providing great shape to the upper body.

I picked up this cotton silk from The Fabric Warehouse, not particularly for this pattern but because it caught my eye while I was in store.  It was the perfect weight for this pattern, which suggests light woven or knit fabrics.  The instructions recommend finishing all the edges first, but I found that my overlocker doesn't deal with light weight fabrics very well so that wasn't a great option, especially because it slightly stretched all the edges because most are on the bias.

With such a lightweight fabric I didn't want to add machine stitching around the neckline or the armholes so I ended up turning them over twice and and stitching them in place with a simple slip stitch.

I love this top and have had it on a weekly rotation in my wardrobe ever since I finished it ... back in April.  It is a very simple pattern to make up and would recommend it to beginners.  I love the clean simple lines with the fitted bodice - it just feels rights.  I am definitely thinking about making a long version of the dress for summer.

More photos on my Flickr -->

Belcarra and Elle

It's been a little quiet around the blog lately, but it's not that I haven't been sewing ... it's that I've been really really bad at taking photos.  Come the weekend and I really can't be bothered doing my hair or my face or going outside, because it is sooo cold!

With my hair freshly done, today was the day to get in front of the camera.  I'll start with a couple of wearable muslin ... the Belcarra top by Sewaholic and the Elle Pant by Style Arc.

Let's start with the Belcarra.  As soon as this pattern hit the world I knew I had to order it - I knew that this is one of those patterns that would be a staple in my wardrobe.

My body shape doesn't fit the Sewaholic profile, so I selected a size 10 based on my bust size and graded to a size 8 at the hips. 

Overall I think it's a damn fine fit.  I just wonder whether I need to remove a small amount of fabric to take into account my hollow upper chest, or whether it's meant to be a really relaxed fit?  I might ponder on that a little more.

I whipped this up using a 1m of cotton voile that I picked up from the remnant bin at The Fabric Warehouse for just $5.00.  Because I only had one metre of fabric I had to use black bias binding for the neck binding.  I made my own bias binding, that worked a treat.

I really like the length of the Belcarra, it just hits the body in the right place that can hide 100 sins.... like these pants.  These are the Elle Pant from Style Arc.  I ordered a size 12, based on my hip measurement.  Given that they were such a basic pant pattern I figured what could go wrong - well that's a rather naive attitude it seems.  Just look at this - not to hard now!!!

And this is with some adjustments after I sewed them together.  I trimmed about 1/4" off the front and back pattern pieces, so 1/2" per side.  I also trimmed about 1/4" off the inner thigh near the crutch, but I didn't alter the crutch at all as that seemed to fit comfortably.  But I've still got all that excess fabric around the crutch??? 

I think I've figured out that I've got too much fabric in the back pieces and could essentially just shave the back pattern pieces along the side seam, probably through to just below the knee - I wouldn't want the calf area to be any tighter.  I really do need to read more on pant fitting.  I took a Craftsy class but it was way too loose for me to grab anything really tangible.  If anyone can recommend a really good pant fitting book that would be amazing; while I've sewn a few jeans, a couple of leggings and now these the perfect fits is still alluding me.  Whatever adjustments I have made aren't really addressing my problem.

For now though these Elle pants are wearable with long tops.

More photos on my Flickr -->

A Little Black Marfy Dress

A little black dress, yes I've sewn a pretty plain looking black dress, but the construction of this little dress was more than simple.  Well that's what it felt like while I was in the middle of it.

This is Marfy 3358, one of the free patterns in the 2014/15 catalogue - I see that these patterns are now available for PDF download.  I was drawn to the pattern by the style lines - the empire line taking on a chevron rather than being parallel to the ground under the bust; the bodice princess seams and the high neckline.

I started by making a muslin of a straight size 46, which required the following alterations:

• removed 1/8" from the side front at high bust and 3/8" from centre front at the high bust - this was to account for my hollow chest, which I recently learned is such a thing and not uncommon.
• 1/4" added to the centre back at the neckline, tappered into the bottom of the bodice at centre back.  Apparently need a little more room for my shoulders.
• added 1/8" to each skirt front piece at hip and 1/4" to each skirt back pieces at the hip.  This gave me that little bit extra I need to get my hips in!
• added 1" to the skirt length

The Marfy pattern itself was perfect, all the pattern markings are in exactly the right place and make absolute sense.  They help you see exactly where the garment is meant to fall on your body, and when you make the alterations you can see exactly where on the pattern you're making them.

With all those changes made I thought the fit was about as good as I was going to get, and whipped out the real fabric. I picked up this cotton pique from Global Fabrics, now The Fabric Store, but creases terribly, as you can see from these picture.

To add some stability to the bodice I interlined it with silk organza.  I kinda wish I had also interlined the skirt to reduce the creasing, but I didn't!

Anyway, I got the shell of the dress put together, I'd even catch stitched down the seam allowance!  Then came the 'in progress' fitting, only to discover that I had too much excess fabric on the bodice side seam under the arm.  Buggar!!!  Out came the trusty seam ripper and I removed 1/4" from each side seam at the under arm graded into the existing seamline where the bodice meets the skirt.

Yay, no more flappy wings!  Although in hindsight I wish I had also removed some fabric from the side front armseye - or maybe I just need to get those shoulders pulled back and improve my posture!

To finish the dress I fully lined it with some DKN acetate, also picked up from The Fabric Store.  The lining was fully inserted by hand-stitching and under-stitched around the neckline.

To add a bit of interest I hand stitched some lizard sequin trim around the chevron empire line.  This is the first little black dress that I've made for myself - a nice fit for my work wardrobe which I can mix and match with jackets and shoes.

More photos on my Flickr -->

Office Warrior - Bellatrix

Did you know the name Bellatrix is Latin for "female warrior" which is a pretty good description of my first Bellatrix Blazer!  This time however, yes a second Bellatrix, it's a bit more "office warrior".

I wear my first Bellatrix Blazer all the time.  It's such an easy jacket to wear, over a dress or with pants ... and in all reality an easy make.  This one I made in one weekend.  For this particular jacket my favourite part is ... the lining.

Just look at those pretty faces!

The lining is just a simple acetate that I purchased from Back Street Bargins on Trade Me.  It just went together perfectly with the wool blend suiting fabric I used for the shell of the blazer.  I've got no idea where I purchased the wool blend suiting fabric from - it's been in my stash for a while, before I started keeping track of the fabric stash!  I think it was always destined to be made into a jacket, and it's the perfect office warrior attire.

I made this version exactly the same as my first, but this time I followed the instructions and used fusible interfacing for the entire centre front panel and then overlaid that with another piece of fusible interfacing for the lapel/collar.  I also placed some fusible interfacing on the side front panels and the upper back, for added structure.  I purchased some tailors fusible interfacing from Spotlight - it was just the perfect weight for the fabric.  I also inserted a small shoulder pad, same as last time, to add that subtle structure to the upper jacket.  Very happy!

It was just a tad windy on photo day!

To give the overall look a bit of a lift, given I hadn't used a contrast for the lapels, I've hand stitched some lizard sequin trim around the outside edge of the lapel.  I couldn't find an appropriate button, so for now have decided to go without.  I've thought about a decorative hook and eye, but haven't had time to look that hard for anything.  I never wear it buttoned anyway, so haven't missed it at all.

I made this jacket from the exact same pattern (with alterations) as my first, but this one feels bigger; it feels like it's got more ease, although in the photos you can't really tell.  I think its the wool suiting fabric that has more 'give' than the synthetic used for my first jacket.  It is really light weight to wear and warm!

The "office warrior" is on regular rotation in my wardrobe :-)

More photos on my Flickr-->

Marfy Shift Dress

My discovery of Marfy patterns led me to the purchase their latest catalogue, which also comes with 20 free patterns.  I figured that 20 free patterns made it well worth the investment and shipping from Italy.

I thought I would start with a nice simple shift dress.  I took a fancy to the uneven hemline with slightly curved corners, matched with a square but curved neckline.  The side darts add waist definition as well as room for the bust.

I made a couple of adjustments to the muslin:

• added 3/4" above the dart but below the armhole to provide for my low bust; 
• removed 3/4" front the length of the skirt to provided for the amount added above the bust; and 
• added 1/4" to the front and back side seams from the waist down.

The back has two darts to give the dress a snug fitted look through the waist.  I inserted a 55cm lap zipper by hand, using a pick stitch.  I love that you can barely tell that there's a zip there :-)

I purchased this really cool snake skin print from the Arthur Toye closing down sale for just $5 per metre - it's a polyester crepe (I think), with a really nice fall.

The fabric needed more body, so as not to stick to me with a little static, but rather skim over my body and fall uninterrupted, so I interlined it with silk organza and then lined it with a cotton viole.  The pattern doesn't provide for any facings but not necessary when it is fully lined.  I inserted the lining by hand with a wee fell stitch.

What I have discovered is that this isn't a dress that I can wear in the winter, because the cotton viole and stockings just don't go together!

While this is my second Marfy make (my first here), this is the first one I've made solo.  It was relatively straight forward and I'm happy with the final result - instructions are over rated!!!

More photos on my Flickr -->

Mission Maxi Hack

The month of May was not only Me-Made-May but it was also Sew Stretchy over at The Monthly Stitch.

The idea of a nice warm knit dress for winter has been brewing away in the back of my mind for a little while - but not anything as simple as finding a pattern and getting to work.  No, no, no!  This was a long-sleeve t-shirt dress which was a combination of the Mission Maxi by Jamie Christine, a Renfrew for the scoop neck (so I didn't have to calculate the neck band) and contrasting of the Ensis Tee.  Now put that on boil and stir occasionally.

I'm feeling okay about the finished result.  I've worn it a couple of times and usually with a pair of black stockings, but today it's bare legs for these photos - sorry legs might be a bit bright, they haven't seen the light of day for a couple of months now, it being winter 'n all.

The dress is beautifully warm with the body made from a snuggly soft thin striped merino from The Fabric Store, the top bodice and sleeve from a ponte jersey knit.  It's loose fitting and very forgiving, but with a bit of shape so it doesn't hang like a sack.

A couple of things that need addressing before making another ... the sleeves are just too long.  I added 1/2" to the Renfrew pattern - well that's what I wrote on my notes, but it looks as if I added 1.5".  While the sleeves can double as hand warmers, they are just too long :(

Really, just look at those sleeves!  I suppose I could just cut off the cuff and reattach.  Hmmmm I just might do that.

I'm not too sure about the shoulder width either.  I made another Renfrew, that I haven't blogged yet, and after making that one I decided that the shoulder width of this dress could afford to be wider, so I added 1/4" to the shoulder seam using the cut a spread method, but I think I could have been a little more conservative and just added 1/8".

The underarm side seam could also have some fabric removed, but I'm still trying to work out in my head how I might do that without actually reducing the armseye and making the upper sleeve too tight.  I've got this dilemma with pretty much everything with sleeves.

This is a very easy dress to wear and it is great for wearing to work when I've got a day of desk bound things to do (and I feel like eating good warm hearty winter food!)

Not many photos as it started to shower just as I got outside with the camera.
A few more photos on my Flickr -->