The pattern, let me start there. No, let's start with "these photos are s**t", which is why it has taken me so long to post this, but taking new photos just ... well just!
Back to the pattern, this is the Pavot Jacket by the French designer Deer & Doe. I ordered this pattern over a year ago, I think, with every intention of making the full length version. I knew I needed to make a muslin to check the fit - just as well I did because there were a number of changes I needed to make. At the muslin point I decided that the full length jacket looked all wrong and wasn't working for me.
I traced off a size 40 which I graded out to a size 42 at the waist and hip. I cut 4" from the length of the jacket skirt, so the short version sat on my hip. As with all other patterns the bust curve in the princess seam was too high and the bodice too short, so I lengthened the bodice at the high bust by 1" and added 5/8" to the bottom of the bodice. This is the most that I have ever had to add to the bodice of a pattern. I also removed some excess fabric from the centre back along the seam line. I didn't think it was necessary to have a seam on the centre back of the skirt piece so place that on the fold when cutting the fabric.
I also didn't following the instructions step by step and decided it would be easier to sew the waistband to the bodice and then the skirt to the waist band, off before sewing the shoulder seams together and inserting the sleeves. The more I get to work in the flat the better I recon!
This pretty blue fabric is a poly/cotton/lycra blend which is just lovely, but it was a bit of a biarch to sew when it came to the front placket - slight stretching under the sewing machine foot. I think I unpicked twice!
The pattern is an unlined jacket, but it's no secret that I like to line everything! So instead of drafting a lining for the jacket thinking about how it would attach to the facings, oh no, I just cut lining exactly the same as the bodice pieces, and then tacked the facings down on the lining by hand. It looks perfectly fine and because it is so lightweight it didn't really add any extra bulk to the jacket.
Given the amount of problems I had with the front placket due to the lycra content I was really scared to go anywhere near it with buttonholes. My buttonhole foot and I don't get along at the best of times. I picked up some large domes/snaps for the closure and then added some big black shank buttons to the outside for decoration. I think they look fabulous!
I wasn't too sure about the Peter Pan Collar so took the vote to Instagram and my gut feeling of no collar won out.
More photos on my Flickr -->
