Marfy Free Jacket Pattern - Part 1

This is the garment that I've been most looking forward to, the Marfy Jacket 1756 - one of the three free patterns made available this year.

I began by selecting a size 46.  Traced the pattern and cut my muslin.  Now here's were it get's interesting as there are no construction instructions.  The only thing that you have to go on is the artist impression and markings on the pattern pieces.

I started by sewing up the centre back seam and then attached the side back pieces to give me a complete back - easy!

Then I thought, attach side front to centre front.  This would be straight forward if they were princess seams, but not!  The side front is an inset corner ... I've only ever sewn one of these before on my Mila Dress, and while it worked out okay, it was a bit of hit and miss.  I went to the trusty internet looking for a technique, this is what I found - Shirley Smith is a goddess!

This is so easy and the end result is, OMG, perfection! There is also a wee section in the book "Couture Sewing Techniques" by Claire Shaeffer on seams with reverse corners.  This is a very similar technique to that demonstrated by Shirley in the video but using hand stitches instead of machine stitching.

Next, I sewed the shoulder seams, then the centre back of the collar before attaching that to the back - tricky little corners, and actually I might try the above technique on those corners as well. I sewed the centre back collar of the front facing then pinned and sewed the front lining to the jacket in one continuous sewing line.

I learnt a good tip from Stephanie Lincecum ... about sewing in the corner of collars to avoid the 'blow-out' ... stop about one stitch before the corner, place the foot at a 45 degree angle to the line of stitching just sewn, sew one or two stitches, turn again to sew the next  seam.  It's the little things that matter!

Make-up free face of concentration!!

I'm pretty happy with the final muslin fit - it only took me 5 weeks!  The first muslin fit was too big around my body, but shoulder width and waist location all seemed to be okay, so I tore the first muslin apart and reduced all vertical seams down to a size 44.  There is room to move and enough room to wear some winter layers of clothing underneath. 

I was surprised at how long the jacket is given the description of the pattern reads "This short, tight-fitting jacket closes edge-to-edge with hooks".  I've removed 3inches from the length so it will sit on my high hip.

Now I need to think about the construction of the actual jacket.  I think it might be a combination of a tailored blazer and a french jacket.  Thinking, thinking ....

Two months, 38 hours and counting

Back in October I embarked on construction of My Little French Jacket and it has been a bit of a journey.  I started with a hiss and a roar and was ahead of the game, each week waiting anxiously for the next sew-along post to come out - but then came the sleeves and a pile of other sewing that I wanted to do.  So when I picked it up yesterday, determined to conquer the sleeves I realised that it had been three weeks since I did any work on it!  Just as well I was ahead of the game, because after successfully getting those sleeves in I'm back on track, yay!  So I thought I would share a bit about the journey so far ....

I chose this cotton boucle and silk lining - both purchased from The Fabric Store here in Wellington.

Muslin pieces all traced and thread traced.  I selected a pattern size according to my bust measurement and made the muslin without any adjustments.  The upper body of the muslin was a great fit, but I had to let out the princess seams in the front for my waist and hips.  Minor adjustments in the scheme of things.

All the pattern pieces are thread traced on the stitch line.  The grainline is also thread traced.  The fabric is then placed over the lining and pinned on - this is where the grainline on the fabric is super useful.

The lining is then attached to the fabric by quilting lines.  This is the very first time I had heard or seen this technique.  I was super curious about how this wouldn't be visible from the outside - but it just get lost in the fabric, almost like magic!

I marked my quilting lines with pins.  Oh and this is where a walking foot on the sewing machine comes into its own - the best investment I ever made!

The seams of the fabric are then all sewn together and pressed open.   Those seams are sewn by machine but to ensure accuracy the seams are basted together first and then put under the machine foot.  The seams of the lining are then trimmed and hand stitched in place using a small fell stitch.  My fell stitches got better and better - the pic below is my sleeve which is looking pretty if I do say so myself :-)

Now the sleeves are also set in my hand. This was a first for me and a little daunting but once I just followed all Leisa's wonderful instructions it was a breeze. 

And here is where I'm at right now ... these two pics are both B&W :-)

Next, I need to work on closing the lining around the sleeve inset then it will be the hems, the trim and pockets.  I feel like I'm on the home straight now ....

Total time to date = 38 hours.

No sleeves thank you!

This week I've been working on my second Indie Pattern, the Go Anywhere Dress by Sewn Square One.  The pattern provides for three variations: a dress, a tunic and a top.

I selected the dress to make first up, with a woven pinstripe from my stash.  All was going well and literally finished today, BUT .... they just had to go - yep the sleeves just had to come off.

It wasn't just the sleeves of the dress but also the sleeves of the lining, which I had just finished hand stitching in place!  Although my fault, I didn't place the sleeves in when I did the muslin.  I figured a 'sleeve is a sleeve' and I've never really had any problem with a sleeve before.  My usual adjustment of a dress is for the hip and when I make that adjustment the waist is slightly adjusted when I true up the curve.

I think the dress will be great with no sleeves and actually more my style.  Maybe that was the message!   The pockets are a great feature and really make the dress - here is a sneak peek.  You will see what I mean when I reveal the finished garment :-)

Cordova Jacket on the table

As I mentioned in my last post I am constructing my first Cordova Jacket for Indie Pattern month.

I went along to the Fabric-a-brac in April and acquired this lovely reversible fabric, 2.5 metres for just $25!  I immediately thought jacket when I saw it and the Cordova was ideal, where I could use both sides of the fabric in the jacket.

I wanted the jacket to be quite close fitting so have chosen to construct a size 6 which has a finished bust of 36, whereas I would usually make a size 8 based on body measurements.  I double checked that this would work and made a quick muslin - perfect!  Sorry no pictures of that, I was too quick to pull it all part and get started.

I'm pleased to say that I'm no longer a tissue paper murderer!  I now trace all my patterns onto calico, sew up the muslin and then pull it apart and use it as the actual pattern from which I cut my fashion fabric.  For this pattern I've stitched all the seam lines to provide stability of the pieces and cut along the 5/8 seam allowance edge.  I only do this after I've made the muslin so I can make any adjustments to the pattern first.

Here I've cut out all my pieces in the fashion fabric.  The peplum, front side and back side will be the reverse of the fabric.  You can slightly see the effect in the pic below.

I decided to make version B of the pattern as I don't want to draw too much attention to my hips.  I might change my mind after I've finished this one, but for now the jury is out on the double peplum.

Stretch Lace Dilemma

I'm a little bit stuck on how I might go about attaching sleeves to this stretch lace dress, so I'm hoping my sewing blog friends might be able to lend me a helping hand (pretty please).

Doesn't look much just on the hanger!

The story so far:  using a pattern from a Burda Magazine, some beautiful stretch lace underlined with a cotton/lycra that stops at the sweetheart neckline but the lace carries on to cover the chest and shoulder blades - I've achieved the desired look for the dress, however .....

a clearer picture of the sweetheart neckline

My daughter wants the dress to have sleeves - lace sleeves!  The lace is easy to sew when attached to the cotton/lycra underlining but on it's own it's a different story ...  it's probably more like a stretch mesh to sew.

I'm going to finish the neckline with some clear elastic, just enough so the neckline sits against the body and I'm sure this will be easy enough because the elastic will provide a bit of stability for the lace.   To provide some strength over the shoulders I've got some thin straps attached to the underlining which will remove any pull on the lace over the upper body (good plan I think!)

But I am stuck on how to get the sleeves in place.  I've thought about using the stretch clear elastic, but I think that would just feel funny to wear.  Next, maybe using some 1/4" stay tape, apply to the sleeve edge of the dress then fit the sleeve into place.  I am a bit worried that this will be too stiff for the stretch lace and will make the sleeve seam look rigid when the dress is worn.

This has been sitting on my sewing desk for a month, while I ponder.   I'm now getting pressure from the daughter who wants to wear it.  Soooooo I would really appreciate any recommendations that you might have on my sleeve dilemma. 

Thanks in advance :-)

Progress with my Minoru

I am so happy with how my Minoru Jacket is coming along.  I've just finished attaching the lining to the outer jacket and just have the finishing bits and pieces to do now.

I wasn't exactly 'in love' with the material I had chosen, but it continues to grow on me more and more as the fabric starts to resemble a jacket.  Hmmm, maybe that is the secret to fabric selection, because in other projects I have absolutely loved the fabric and then when the garment is finally finished I'm just 'oh hum' about it.  This project is just the opposite!

I'm really loving the lining of the jacket and with two inner pockets the inside of the jacket will look just as stunning as the outer.

The inside pockets should have had a square of velcro as a closure mechanism - but I'm not a fan so I've chosen to leave it out all together.

The two features of the jacket that I think really add to the overall detail and personality of the jacket is the gathering around the collar and the cuffs.  The cuffs were super fiddly!  

Other than that I've followed the pattern all the way.  Here is what I have so far - isn't the little hanging loop so cute!

 Here is the link to the Minoru Pattern by Sewaholic.