Marfy Free Jacket Pattern - Part 1

This is the garment that I've been most looking forward to, the Marfy Jacket 1756 - one of the three free patterns made available this year.

I began by selecting a size 46.  Traced the pattern and cut my muslin.  Now here's were it get's interesting as there are no construction instructions.  The only thing that you have to go on is the artist impression and markings on the pattern pieces.

I started by sewing up the centre back seam and then attached the side back pieces to give me a complete back - easy!

Then I thought, attach side front to centre front.  This would be straight forward if they were princess seams, but not!  The side front is an inset corner ... I've only ever sewn one of these before on my Mila Dress, and while it worked out okay, it was a bit of hit and miss.  I went to the trusty internet looking for a technique, this is what I found - Shirley Smith is a goddess!

This is so easy and the end result is, OMG, perfection! There is also a wee section in the book "Couture Sewing Techniques" by Claire Shaeffer on seams with reverse corners.  This is a very similar technique to that demonstrated by Shirley in the video but using hand stitches instead of machine stitching.

Next, I sewed the shoulder seams, then the centre back of the collar before attaching that to the back - tricky little corners, and actually I might try the above technique on those corners as well. I sewed the centre back collar of the front facing then pinned and sewed the front lining to the jacket in one continuous sewing line.

I learnt a good tip from Stephanie Lincecum ... about sewing in the corner of collars to avoid the 'blow-out' ... stop about one stitch before the corner, place the foot at a 45 degree angle to the line of stitching just sewn, sew one or two stitches, turn again to sew the next  seam.  It's the little things that matter!

Make-up free face of concentration!!

I'm pretty happy with the final muslin fit - it only took me 5 weeks!  The first muslin fit was too big around my body, but shoulder width and waist location all seemed to be okay, so I tore the first muslin apart and reduced all vertical seams down to a size 44.  There is room to move and enough room to wear some winter layers of clothing underneath. 

I was surprised at how long the jacket is given the description of the pattern reads "This short, tight-fitting jacket closes edge-to-edge with hooks".  I've removed 3inches from the length so it will sit on my high hip.

Now I need to think about the construction of the actual jacket.  I think it might be a combination of a tailored blazer and a french jacket.  Thinking, thinking ....

HELP! Sewing v Bloglovin Conundrum

Work and life has just stepped up a gear now that the honeymoon with the new year is now over.   Because I own my own business work takes first priority after ensuring kids and husband are all organised and loved.  Which means time for things such as sewing take a back seat :-(

But now I've got a conundrum of what to do with the little time I do have and a Friday evening is most definitely still my wind down time - for the past two weeks I've been so exhausted it's been blob in front of the TV kinda evening.

This week I have a little more energy despite already working some long days this week.  But what do to - shall I spend a little time trying to finish my muslin for my Marfy jacket sew-along (that I am so far behind with) or should I spend some time reading my 500+ Bloglovin feed, and show some lovin to the sewing community that gives me so much inspiration and encouragement.

  v.s 

On top of this, I have three blog posts that I can be writing and comments on the existing post that I need to reply (which I will do in a moment).

How do you decide?  What do you do? Please help, Please ....

Okay for now I might just procrastinate a bit more and go watch some TV!

Wolfies on the Longside

This was going to be my Project Sewn entry for the shoe inspiration challenge - but life got in the way and I didn't get photos taken and edited in time to add the link.

The shoes are Mia Piaci that I got on my last trip to Auckland.  You may have seen them on my Instagram feed!  I totally love them.  Let me show you a close up ...

These shoes look best with a skinny jean/pant, so I decided it was time for a couple of pattern hacks, ha-ha-ha!

The pants are Peter and the Wolf by Papercut patterns.  I made my first pair of Wolfies in December, you can read about my first dance with this pattern here.

The first pair was made straight out of the box.  The fit needed some small tweaks to move fabric from the front to the back, but the bones of the pattern were good.   I needed to add some depth to the back and remove some length from the front in the high hip and waist region.

For the second pair I picked up some heavy black cotton sateen and snake skin print from the Arthur Toye closing down sale.

I'm not a huge fan of the 3/4 leg pant, so this time I wanted to convert the pattern to a skinny fit.  Changes to the pattern included:

• removing 1/4" from about the centre of the front crouch seam, by creating a hinge.  I dropped the crouch at the inner leg seam by 1/4" to put back the same amount of fabric I had taken out.
• I lowered the centre front by 3/4" and the front leg seam by 1/2" tapering up to the original height of the side seam.
• I added 1/2" to the centre back seam, about 2" below the top edge.
• I added 6" to the length and tappered all four pieces so the circumference around my ankle was 9" in total.
• Added 5" to the waist band because the pants now sit on my hip rather than my waist.
• Added belt loops.

(some photos of the pattern adjustments at on my Flickr)

The major change I made to the pant was to insert a front fly rather than having a side seam.  I copied the fly front and pattern pieces from my favourite Jalie jean pattern.  This is the best fly front that I have ever done, although it is only my third!

I also attempted to put in some faux pocket openings in the back, copying a concept from one of my ready to wear jeans.  This was a bit of a fail!  They look okay from a distance and give the look I was trying to achieve but don't look to closely at them, cause they aren't pretty.

For the leg hem I used a self-drafted facing and included a small side split.  I'm really liking the hem facing concept, it gives a really nice crisp line.  I used a bit of contrast fabric for the front facing, just cause I could :-)

I made an Ensis tee (pattern hack) to wear with these pants.  After my other recent Ensis Tee, I wanted to play a bit more with the lace concept.  This time I selected a black merino and some left over stretch lace from this dress.  I hacked this pattern quite severly ...

• For the top pieces and sleeves I cut a XS - the fit of my previous tees where perfect.
• The body needed to be a closer fit, so I cut the bottom body pieces down to a size XXS.
• I had to reduce the upper body pieces under the arm to a size XXS, which now means my sleeves wouldn't fit, so I added the extra 5/8" back into the armseye by lengthening the top body pieces under the notches.
• I dropped the neckline by 2"
• The bottom body pieces were shortened to the waist so I could add a peplum.
• I decided to take the peplum from the Cake Hummingbird pattern

I had a slight hiccup in that I didn't quite have enough of the merino that I got from The Fabric Store and had to use some that I just purchased from Arthur Toye.  They are slightly different in quality and colour - not that I think anyone but me will notice.

I'm not that in love with this tee.  I didn't allow any fabric for the bust so the seam at the front waist is higher than the back.  I kinda wish I had made it without the peplum.  I have more merino and more of the lace so I might just do that yet.

More photos on my Flickr --> I used a different camera for these resulting in smaller images than usual.  I must work out the setting, or get another camera!

Shinny Bellatrix

When Papercut Patterns released the new Constellation Collection I fell in love with the Bellatrix Blazer and immediately placed an order.  It has taken me a wee while to actually sew it up, but I'm pleased to say the first iteration is now in my wardrobe.

I dithered a bit about the fabric, but when I pulled this from the depths of my stash, it was obvious.  This shiny PVC/polytester blend that has a kinda suede feel was a little acquisition from The Fabric Store at one of their sales last year at something ridiculous like $6 p/m.

The black lapel and welt pockets are actually the reverse of the fabric.  I've got no idea where I got the button from, it was a solitary find in my button jar.  The match is so perfect you might think that I made a self-covered button, but no!

My inner self battled over whether or not to make a muslin - but the voice of reason spoke and the muslin was made.  Just as well, because changes were most definitely required for a better fit.  Well actually, it wouldn't have fit at all if I had made it direct from the packet.

I had quiet a battle with the princess seams, fluffing with the curve for a small and lower bust.  Anyway it finally worked out after ripping the muslin apart and sewing it up again, about three times!
I also had to move the shoulder seam (at the arms edge) forward by 1.5".  In hindsight I should have also moved it forward at the neck edge about 1/2"!  I lengthened the sleeves by 2" and lengthened the body 1/2" about 3/4" up from the under arm.  Whilst that doesn't seem to be a long list of alterations I'm still trying to get my head around interpreting the adjustment that might be required.

I didn't use interfacing in front of the jacket (as per the instructions), but rather just placed the interfacing in the lapel.  Given the stability of the fabric this was an okay decision.

I wasn't sure about whether I would need shoulder pads, but after a final fitting before closing the lining I decided that the shoulders could do with some structure to help the blazer maintain it's shape.

For a touch of fun I used this pretty pink plaid for the pocket lining, left over from my peek-a-boo dress.   This is also a really good close-up of the fabric.

Now I just got to make some black skinny jeans to wear the jacket with - although my "me made" jeans in this photo worked.  It's not one of those garments that will go with everything - I'll have to be quite selective about what I can wear it with.  Maybe a black dress would work also?

More photos on my Flickr -->

Stripe T-shirts

I hatched a plan in my head for a Lace Ensis Tee, and once it's in my head ... then it must happen! This is the result...

I have sewn this pattern once before HERE.  Whilst I was happy with how the top-half fitted I was keen to get a better fit on the lower body this time.  I cut a XS size exactly to pattern and it is perfect!

The upper sleeve is cut exactly to pattern and I made sleeve bands the same depth as the neckband. I applied the sleeve band first, then attached the sleeves to the body in the flat, sewed up the side seams and under sleeve including bands. Then I folded the band under and top-stitched. I'm pretty pleased with this application because the seam is neatly finished with no raw edges. Stripe matching was pretty easy with this fabric, it was beautifully on grain.

The stripe fabric I recently picked up from the Arthur Toye closing down sale for just $7.50p/m.  It's a light weight jersey knit which matches the weight of the lace beautifully.  The lace I bought at the Fabric Warehouse pop-up sale at the end of last year for a mere $3.00p/m.

While I was rummaging around in my stash I also pulled out another stripe knit, this one acquired at the Fabric Warehouse pop-up sale for $3.00p/m and paired it with some white powernet I purchased for bra making, also from the Fabric Warehouse.

This is the Hi Lo Raglan from Jamie Christina. I've also made this one before HERE.  I made a couple of alterations to the pattern: widened both front a back pattern pieces by 1/4" at the hip; shorted the back curve by 3/4" and added 2" to the length of the sleeves at the cuff end - I quiet like a long, long sleeve.

I feel I'm getting pretty good at this stripe matching thing ..

Both of these t-shirts were quick and easy to put together - I cut and sewed both in one afternoon/evening.   I used my trusty ol walking foot on my Janome and finished the seams with the overlocker. My overlocker is soooo old that it is only good for finishing seams - doesn't do any fancy stuff.

On both I finished the hem by overlocking the raw edge and turning it up and under 1/4" then top stitched.  Although in hindsight I should have used by twin needle so it doesn't curl.

More photos on my Flickr -- Ensis Tee and Hi Lo Raglan

Jungle Marfy

I recently got introduced to Marfy patterns, quite by accident.  Carola posted a question on the 2013 RTW Fasters FB page back in September, wanting to know if anyone had sewn a Marfy pattern, because they don't come with instructions.  What?!  No instructions, who are these people ... internet research revealed they are an Italian indie pattern designer that hand cut all their patterns before despatching.

As the LFJ sew-along got going there were loads of Marfy patterns posted to the inspiration board, this is when I started to look closely at them.  Then in December Leisa announced that she would be hosting a sew-along with the free Marfy patterns - a top, a skirt and a jacket.  Without hesitation I signed up (really I'm not a free freak, but what better way to get introduced to a new pattern brand).  Anyway enough reading, let me show you some pictures....

The suggested fabric by Marfy is jersey, crepe de chine, chiffon or satin.  I had a few pieces of fabric in my stash that would have worked perfectly but seen everyone in the blogisphere was stepping out for Jungle January I settled on this polyester satin.  I picked this up on Trade Me (NZ version of EBay) maybe 12-18 months ago and thought it would be great for lining.  I figured that if it all turned to custard I hadn't lost anything.

I must admit I was a little nervous about sewing this fabric because it just moves everywhere!  Determine to conquer I carefully folded the fabric and pinned, pinned, pinned and pinned again (my silk pins are definitely my BFF).

I sewed this together using a combination of regular 'ol sewing machine seams and couture techniques.  Leisa consulted with Susan Khalje who shared this fantastic couture technique for creating the back opening - the back pattern piece is cut on the fold.  I can see that look of confusion on you face!  Have a read of this and all will become clear - I think it's brilliant and easy enough to create.

I lined both pieces of the collar with silk organsa and machine basted them in place.  It was just the right amount of structure for the collar to sit up but not be rough on my neck.  Look at this - I was so happy with the result.

I applied the collar to the top with the sewing machine, around three sides, but then hand-stitched the back of the collar to the top so there wasn't a line of machine stitching visible at the bottom of the collar.  It also just feels better!

I tried a hairline seam for the shoulder seams and a french seam for the sides.  I did a machine rolled hem around the bottom and half machine, half hand-stitch rolled hem for the armholes.

I made a couple of pattern adjustments:

1. Lengthen the body above the armpit.  Although now I'm not sure that I needed to lengthen as much as I just needed to slightly reshape the armhole so it didn't cut into the crease where my arm meets my body in the front.
2. Added 3/4" (2cm) to the bottom.
3. Cut and spread 1/2" (1.2cm) just off centre back to allow for the opening technique. 
4. Curved in the side seams slightly to give a little shape to the top

I feel next time I could take 1/2" (1.2cm) off the side seam of the front and back and it would still have enough room.  Oh, I cut a size 46 - patterns are available from sizes 42-58.

Looking at the design sketches it appears that elastic has been put into the bottom so when worn out the bottom sits on hips and behaves.  I decided not to put elastic in mine, so I could wear tucked in with a skirt or out with a pair of skinnies (maybe?)

Again I have learnt so much from the very talented Leisa over at A Challenging Sew and I'm looking forward to putting the jacket together in March.  This Marfy pattern was well drafted and actually quite easy to put together, with a bit of thought.

My pattern-a-holic self could help herself and ordered the 2014/15 Marfy catalogue. 

One part of me was curious as to what other detail was provided in the catalogue to help guide the sewing decisions, the other part of me couldn't pass up the 20 free patterns included.   The Marfy pattern pricing isn't any different from other indie patterns that range from NZ$25-$30 and for that matter we pay NZ$30 for a Vogue pattern.  

It's the postage that's the killer, but even so the cost per pattern included in the catalogue works out to be just NZ$4.75 - what a bargain right!?  Bonus - the catalogue is beautiful.

After the sew-along has finished I'm looking forward to challenging myself with a few of these patterns - going solo if it were (scary!)

More photos on my Flicr -->

My Little French Jacket #1

Say hello to my very first Little Black French Jacket!  Total hours to completion 55, which I'm pretty happy about, because before I started I expected it would take about 75!

In December when I was at 38 hours I made this progress post if you want all the details before now.  When I last left off I had just set-in the sleeves ... well, let me tell you, I had real problems getting the inside lining to sit just right on these suckers!  After wrestling with it for a few hours and reading Leisa's post over and over and over, I decided it was time for a different approach and consulted Claire Shaeffer's DVD "The Couture Cardigan Jacket" - I decided her method was a winner and final got it all in place, not as pretty as I would have like, but none the less the sleeves were in and the lining closed - who's gonna see it anyway, as long as the sleeves don't fall off while being worn, right?!

I finally made a decision about the bottom front.  Initially I drafted a rounded edge as you can see below, but as the jacket came together, I just wasn't sure.  In the end I went with my gut instinct and advice from follow sewcialists and squared it off.

The trim I found at The Fabric Warehouse - some pre-pleated satin ribbon, over which I laid some tiny gimp.  I love that the ribbon is 'wavey' and not just a simple straight line.

I also decided not to apply the trim around the bottom of the jacket, probably a bit OTT!

The Vogue pattern I used only provided for a two piece sleeve which meant no sleeve vent, synonymous with the LFJ.  I was okay with this for my first jacket, but thought a faux vent would do the trick.  A three piece sleeve has a seam that runs from the top of the sleeve, where it joins the shoulder seam, straight down to the cuff which is where the vent is constructed.  My faux vent is located in exactly the same place with a strip of trim running perpendicular to the cuff.

I made a few booboos along the way, like cutting the lining inside out - but luckily the lining was almost identical on the right and wrong sides, so you can't really tell.  I used a broadcloth as an interlining - I thought this would give the jacket some stability that I was looking for.  Oh it has definitely done that, but way more than necessary.  I should have just used it for the centre front pieces.  On the up side, it is super warm to wear.  I would set-in the sleeves differently next time and follow the Claire Shaeffer method to the letter - it is the last thing she does after closing the jacket and adding all the trim.  I think this would work better for me.

I must give a HUGE thank you to both Inna and Leisa for the sew-along - the amount of information shared by both was just invaluable and totally enjoyable.

I love my LFJ and have worn it at every opportunity since it was finished in early January.  Now that I've got all my rookieness (that is totally a word!) out of the way I'm really looking forward to making my next one using the free Marfy pattern, starting in March.  For now I'm sewing pants for The Monthly Stitch 'Smarty Pants February'.  You can join me on Instagram for up to the moment progress and hopefully I can get all three complete.

More photos on my Flickr -->