Going for Casual

This is my most recent make, because blogging about things in the order I make them just isn't the done thing!

Sophie is the new pattern release by Muse Patterns.  Sophie is a cute, sporty cardigan - a fitted style, which curves gently in at the waist and flares out again over your hips. Raglan sleeves add a casual touch and also give great opportunities for mixing fabric, which is exactly what I did.

I was lucky enough to be one of the testers for this pattern.  I cut a size 36. BTW I love the sizing of Muse Patterns - they are designed for the taller woman with a slightly bigger bottom half than top half, so I pretty much fit straight into a 36.

This pattern comes with so many collar options and front closure options that every version I've seen so far looks completely unique.  I chose to make the v-neck button up version, but as you can see I applied domes instead of buttons.

Oh, and there are two different pocket options.  I was really taken by the half circle at the side seam.

The entrance is just enough to fit my hand into, and spans the entire front of the jacket.

You could have so much fun with these pockets.  Not only the trim but the pocket lining could be a third contrast colour.

The sleeves are nice and long, as you would expect for the taller woman, and are perfect for me without having to lengthen at all - whoop whoop!  I know not everyone has long arms, and it's not the most complicated adjustment to make, but just not having to worry is a bonus.

Okay, enough about my Sophie, you should get on over to Muse Patterns and check out the lovely cherry red version with a collar and zip-up front.  It is delicious!

A few more photos on my Flickr -->

Butterick for a change

Earlier in the year I took advantage of a Butterick pattern sale and bought about five or so patterns, two of which were for knit fabrics.

I had some purple double knit jersey in my stash that I had bought to make a hoodie, but never quite got there!  I figured that the purple would look better in a dress than a hoodie anyway.  Not that these photos do the colour any justice - see those clouds, need I say more!!!

This is Butterick B5915, described as a semi-fitted, lined dress (close-fitting through bust).  I selected to make a size 12, based on my bust measurement.  Knowing that my hips wouldn't fit I graded the patterns out to a size 14 for my lower half.

I didn't make a muslin for this one - it's a knit dress!  That was the bit that fooled me.  While the shell of the dress was a double knit jersey I had purchased tricot for the lining - as recommended by the pattern.  Having never used tricot before I wasn't really sure what I was in for, but I quickly worked out that the tricot is what gives the dress the structure it needs.

At one stage I considered whether I could make the dress without the side zip - it just seemed weird inserting a zipper into a double knit jersey fabric.  If the dress was lined with a stretch satin or similar then the zip probably wouldn't be required.  The invisible zipper actually went in smoothly.

Before putting in the zipper I basted the side seams together so I could do a fit check, particular for my hips.  What would you know, it was too big!  So I brought the hips back into a size 12, but my hips are so NOT 36".

I didn't cut the lining until I had the shell of the dress complete and knew what fitting changes I had made.  For the lining I cut a perfect size 12 all the way through, BUT I could have done with grading the lining out to a size 14 for the extra room.   Sure it fits and I can move around but it just feels a little snugger than it could be.

Final thought ... the dress doesn't have to be made with a knit fabric, it would work just as well with a woven fabric with a bit of drape to it, so the pleats in the shoulder don't appear stiff - not that you can really see the shoulder pleats in these photos ... and this is my second attempt at getting some photos, but the damn weather just doesn't want to play my game when I have time!  So this is all I got today.

Sweet Lola

Lola, la-la-la-la-la-la Lola - come you you can't help but sing along!  Don't tell me you don't know that song?!

Okay, okay I've finished singing now.  Let me talk about the Lola dress by Victory Patterns.  The dress is described as a comfortable slip on dress with raglan sleeves, ribbed hem bands, front neckline “V” detail, and oversized wrap around pockets.

I prefer to have a more fitted look so considered carefully the sizing.   I went with a size 4 for the top and a size 6 for the skirt.  I must say the sizing chart was spot on!  I like how the size of the finished garment is shown directly under the body measurement chart.

I really like the fit of the bust area, but I feel like the shoulder/sleeves could do with a bit more ease.

I was thinking about this on my drive home from work and had a bit of an epiphany!  SBA (small bust adjustment)!!  I still need to have the room for my shoulders, which I'll say are normal (haha, as if there is such a word).  If the shoulders fit, the bust is swimming - if the bust fits the shoulders are always too small, which is all good if the garment is sleeveless.  Now to Google SBA and get my method sussed.

Back to my Lola!  I don't often visit Spotlight, other then to buy haberdashery when I'm on that side of town.  I got side-tracked on my last visit and found some double knit jersey for just $10 p/m - it's more like a ponti than a sweat-shirting.  The weight of the fabric is perfect for the Lola the blue was irresistible, but the ribbing choice was a different story.  In the end I decided that I could use the same fabric for the bands a the dress.   I am really happy with how that turned out.

My favourite feature about this dress is the wrap-around pockets.  This is because there is no side seam to faf around with, 'cause next to my SBA I always have to faf with the hip shape.

This Lola is dressy enough that I can wear it to work - I omitted the neck "V" so it doesn't have that casual look.  I definitely plan on making another one that is more casual, a looser fit that can be worn over jeans - that one can have the wee neck "V" included.

Everyone needs a Lola for sure!