A Little Black Marfy Dress

A little black dress, yes I've sewn a pretty plain looking black dress, but the construction of this little dress was more than simple.  Well that's what it felt like while I was in the middle of it.

This is Marfy 3358, one of the free patterns in the 2014/15 catalogue - I see that these patterns are now available for PDF download.  I was drawn to the pattern by the style lines - the empire line taking on a chevron rather than being parallel to the ground under the bust; the bodice princess seams and the high neckline.

I started by making a muslin of a straight size 46, which required the following alterations:

• removed 1/8" from the side front at high bust and 3/8" from centre front at the high bust - this was to account for my hollow chest, which I recently learned is such a thing and not uncommon.
• 1/4" added to the centre back at the neckline, tappered into the bottom of the bodice at centre back.  Apparently need a little more room for my shoulders.
• added 1/8" to each skirt front piece at hip and 1/4" to each skirt back pieces at the hip.  This gave me that little bit extra I need to get my hips in!
• added 1" to the skirt length

The Marfy pattern itself was perfect, all the pattern markings are in exactly the right place and make absolute sense.  They help you see exactly where the garment is meant to fall on your body, and when you make the alterations you can see exactly where on the pattern you're making them.

With all those changes made I thought the fit was about as good as I was going to get, and whipped out the real fabric. I picked up this cotton pique from Global Fabrics, now The Fabric Store, but creases terribly, as you can see from these picture.

To add some stability to the bodice I interlined it with silk organza.  I kinda wish I had also interlined the skirt to reduce the creasing, but I didn't!

Anyway, I got the shell of the dress put together, I'd even catch stitched down the seam allowance!  Then came the 'in progress' fitting, only to discover that I had too much excess fabric on the bodice side seam under the arm.  Buggar!!!  Out came the trusty seam ripper and I removed 1/4" from each side seam at the under arm graded into the existing seamline where the bodice meets the skirt.

Yay, no more flappy wings!  Although in hindsight I wish I had also removed some fabric from the side front armseye - or maybe I just need to get those shoulders pulled back and improve my posture!

To finish the dress I fully lined it with some DKN acetate, also picked up from The Fabric Store.  The lining was fully inserted by hand-stitching and under-stitched around the neckline.

To add a bit of interest I hand stitched some lizard sequin trim around the chevron empire line.  This is the first little black dress that I've made for myself - a nice fit for my work wardrobe which I can mix and match with jackets and shoes.

More photos on my Flickr -->

Office Warrior - Bellatrix

Did you know the name Bellatrix is Latin for "female warrior" which is a pretty good description of my first Bellatrix Blazer!  This time however, yes a second Bellatrix, it's a bit more "office warrior".

I wear my first Bellatrix Blazer all the time.  It's such an easy jacket to wear, over a dress or with pants ... and in all reality an easy make.  This one I made in one weekend.  For this particular jacket my favourite part is ... the lining.

Just look at those pretty faces!

The lining is just a simple acetate that I purchased from Back Street Bargins on Trade Me.  It just went together perfectly with the wool blend suiting fabric I used for the shell of the blazer.  I've got no idea where I purchased the wool blend suiting fabric from - it's been in my stash for a while, before I started keeping track of the fabric stash!  I think it was always destined to be made into a jacket, and it's the perfect office warrior attire.

I made this version exactly the same as my first, but this time I followed the instructions and used fusible interfacing for the entire centre front panel and then overlaid that with another piece of fusible interfacing for the lapel/collar.  I also placed some fusible interfacing on the side front panels and the upper back, for added structure.  I purchased some tailors fusible interfacing from Spotlight - it was just the perfect weight for the fabric.  I also inserted a small shoulder pad, same as last time, to add that subtle structure to the upper jacket.  Very happy!

It was just a tad windy on photo day!

To give the overall look a bit of a lift, given I hadn't used a contrast for the lapels, I've hand stitched some lizard sequin trim around the outside edge of the lapel.  I couldn't find an appropriate button, so for now have decided to go without.  I've thought about a decorative hook and eye, but haven't had time to look that hard for anything.  I never wear it buttoned anyway, so haven't missed it at all.

I made this jacket from the exact same pattern (with alterations) as my first, but this one feels bigger; it feels like it's got more ease, although in the photos you can't really tell.  I think its the wool suiting fabric that has more 'give' than the synthetic used for my first jacket.  It is really light weight to wear and warm!

The "office warrior" is on regular rotation in my wardrobe :-)

More photos on my Flickr-->

Marfy Shift Dress

My discovery of Marfy patterns led me to the purchase their latest catalogue, which also comes with 20 free patterns.  I figured that 20 free patterns made it well worth the investment and shipping from Italy.

I thought I would start with a nice simple shift dress.  I took a fancy to the uneven hemline with slightly curved corners, matched with a square but curved neckline.  The side darts add waist definition as well as room for the bust.

I made a couple of adjustments to the muslin:

• added 3/4" above the dart but below the armhole to provide for my low bust; 
• removed 3/4" front the length of the skirt to provided for the amount added above the bust; and 
• added 1/4" to the front and back side seams from the waist down.

The back has two darts to give the dress a snug fitted look through the waist.  I inserted a 55cm lap zipper by hand, using a pick stitch.  I love that you can barely tell that there's a zip there :-)

I purchased this really cool snake skin print from the Arthur Toye closing down sale for just $5 per metre - it's a polyester crepe (I think), with a really nice fall.

The fabric needed more body, so as not to stick to me with a little static, but rather skim over my body and fall uninterrupted, so I interlined it with silk organza and then lined it with a cotton viole.  The pattern doesn't provide for any facings but not necessary when it is fully lined.  I inserted the lining by hand with a wee fell stitch.

What I have discovered is that this isn't a dress that I can wear in the winter, because the cotton viole and stockings just don't go together!

While this is my second Marfy make (my first here), this is the first one I've made solo.  It was relatively straight forward and I'm happy with the final result - instructions are over rated!!!

More photos on my Flickr -->

Mission Maxi Hack

The month of May was not only Me-Made-May but it was also Sew Stretchy over at The Monthly Stitch.

The idea of a nice warm knit dress for winter has been brewing away in the back of my mind for a little while - but not anything as simple as finding a pattern and getting to work.  No, no, no!  This was a long-sleeve t-shirt dress which was a combination of the Mission Maxi by Jamie Christine, a Renfrew for the scoop neck (so I didn't have to calculate the neck band) and contrasting of the Ensis Tee.  Now put that on boil and stir occasionally.

I'm feeling okay about the finished result.  I've worn it a couple of times and usually with a pair of black stockings, but today it's bare legs for these photos - sorry legs might be a bit bright, they haven't seen the light of day for a couple of months now, it being winter 'n all.

The dress is beautifully warm with the body made from a snuggly soft thin striped merino from The Fabric Store, the top bodice and sleeve from a ponte jersey knit.  It's loose fitting and very forgiving, but with a bit of shape so it doesn't hang like a sack.

A couple of things that need addressing before making another ... the sleeves are just too long.  I added 1/2" to the Renfrew pattern - well that's what I wrote on my notes, but it looks as if I added 1.5".  While the sleeves can double as hand warmers, they are just too long :(

Really, just look at those sleeves!  I suppose I could just cut off the cuff and reattach.  Hmmmm I just might do that.

I'm not too sure about the shoulder width either.  I made another Renfrew, that I haven't blogged yet, and after making that one I decided that the shoulder width of this dress could afford to be wider, so I added 1/4" to the shoulder seam using the cut a spread method, but I think I could have been a little more conservative and just added 1/8".

The underarm side seam could also have some fabric removed, but I'm still trying to work out in my head how I might do that without actually reducing the armseye and making the upper sleeve too tight.  I've got this dilemma with pretty much everything with sleeves.

This is a very easy dress to wear and it is great for wearing to work when I've got a day of desk bound things to do (and I feel like eating good warm hearty winter food!)

Not many photos as it started to shower just as I got outside with the camera.
A few more photos on my Flickr -->

Moss Mini - for the fun of it!

Back in February when the weather was still warm, I thought I needed an easy to wear skirt for the weekends rather than just going for shorts all the time.  I came across the Grainline Studio Moss Mini while stalking the Flickr Group.  The measurements where perfect for my body shape, so immediately clicked the buy button and downloaded the PDF pattern!

I didn't want to bother making a muslin, so though I would use fabric recently left over from my Wolfies (stretch cotton twill) and Brasilia Dress (cotton sateen stretch) to make a wearable muslin.  Here is what I got with only one minor adjustment to the length.

I added 1" to the length of the skirt, at the recommended place on the pattern. 

Whilst the skirt is comfy it could hug my waist a little more.  I think I could easily remove 1/4" from the centre front pattern piece to reduce the total circumference of the skirt by 1/2" just at the waist.  I also used the skirt fabric to for the fly lining, which has made the fly a bit bulkier than desired.  Note to self for next time - use a stiff interfacing!

The back of the skirt is a good fit.  For a bit of interest I added some patch pockets from my jeans pattern.

I really like the back yoke of the skirt - it's got a real 'jean' feel to it.  I have a nice piece of denim in my stash and just might have to make a jean version - perhaps lined for winter so I can wear stockings without it clinging.

A really great little pattern that I can see replacing my shorts in the summer.

More photos on my Flickr -->

Me-Made-May 2014

I, Sandra of www.sewiststitch.blogspot.co.nz/, sign up as a participant of Me-Made-May '14.  I endeavour to wear at least one item of me made for each day for the duration of May 2014.

I learnt about this challenge completely by chance last year, when my feed reader was full of people talking about wearing their own makes during the month of May.   It is such a great challenge to celebrate your own handmade wardrobe.  You can read more about the Me-Made-May Challenge over at So Zo.

This is my second year of ready to wear fasting, and my wardrobe has been growing steadily, although there is still at least 1-2 days per week where I won't wear something me made.  I don't consciously make a decision to wear or not to wear me-made, its more about what goes together on the day.  So this May I am going to make a conscious effort to wear one item of me-made per day and identify what items in my wardrobe need building.  I suspect it is more casual wear for the weekends and tops but let the month of May tell the true story.

I can't promise to do a daily photo diary but any attempts will be posted to Instagram.

Happy Month of May :-)

Marfy Free Jacket Pattern - Part 1

This is the garment that I've been most looking forward to, the Marfy Jacket 1756 - one of the three free patterns made available this year.

I began by selecting a size 46.  Traced the pattern and cut my muslin.  Now here's were it get's interesting as there are no construction instructions.  The only thing that you have to go on is the artist impression and markings on the pattern pieces.

I started by sewing up the centre back seam and then attached the side back pieces to give me a complete back - easy!

Then I thought, attach side front to centre front.  This would be straight forward if they were princess seams, but not!  The side front is an inset corner ... I've only ever sewn one of these before on my Mila Dress, and while it worked out okay, it was a bit of hit and miss.  I went to the trusty internet looking for a technique, this is what I found - Shirley Smith is a goddess!

This is so easy and the end result is, OMG, perfection! There is also a wee section in the book "Couture Sewing Techniques" by Claire Shaeffer on seams with reverse corners.  This is a very similar technique to that demonstrated by Shirley in the video but using hand stitches instead of machine stitching.

Next, I sewed the shoulder seams, then the centre back of the collar before attaching that to the back - tricky little corners, and actually I might try the above technique on those corners as well. I sewed the centre back collar of the front facing then pinned and sewed the front lining to the jacket in one continuous sewing line.

I learnt a good tip from Stephanie Lincecum ... about sewing in the corner of collars to avoid the 'blow-out' ... stop about one stitch before the corner, place the foot at a 45 degree angle to the line of stitching just sewn, sew one or two stitches, turn again to sew the next  seam.  It's the little things that matter!

Make-up free face of concentration!!

I'm pretty happy with the final muslin fit - it only took me 5 weeks!  The first muslin fit was too big around my body, but shoulder width and waist location all seemed to be okay, so I tore the first muslin apart and reduced all vertical seams down to a size 44.  There is room to move and enough room to wear some winter layers of clothing underneath. 

I was surprised at how long the jacket is given the description of the pattern reads "This short, tight-fitting jacket closes edge-to-edge with hooks".  I've removed 3inches from the length so it will sit on my high hip.

Now I need to think about the construction of the actual jacket.  I think it might be a combination of a tailored blazer and a french jacket.  Thinking, thinking ....