Silk Granville Shirt

After finishing my wearable muslin (which I haven't blogged yet, oops! but will explain more soon...) I immediately made the following changes to the pattern pieces of the Sewaholic Granville Shirt:

• moved the side dart and waist down 1/2" using the cut and slash method above the bust on the front pieces and the two back pieces.
• I didn't want to change the length of the shirt, so I removed 1/2" at the high hip on all three pattern pieces.
• I added 1/8" at the waist by the front and side back pieces, created an additional 1/2" of ease all round.
• I added 1" to the original sleeve pattern piece.

This shirt is a little difficult to get a true read on fit because the silk is so mobile, but it is feeling like the changes worked.

To keep the silk under control while sewing I used some starch spray, ironed it in and then left it overnight to set. Not sure that you need to let it set, but once it was dry the silk had a wee bit more control.

I wanted to add some structure to the collar, collar stand and cuffs - so rather than using a really heaving interfacing I elected to use some silk crepe de chine on the underside of these pieces. I applied the interfacing to the crepe de chine pieces so the silk would move loosely over top . I love the end of result of this.

I think I should have used the crepe de chine for the sleeve plackets because constructing these with the silk was just a real pain in the arse! They are not pretty!!!

I finished all the seams with the french seam technique including setting in the sleeve. This is the first time I've used the french seam to set in the sleeve and I was so nervous about sewing it the wrong way I must have triple checked it twice over, each time.  It was relatively easy to do and the finish around the sleeve is now just as pretty as all the other seams.

Because the silk was so delicate I used a 70/10 needle in my machine and purchased some machine embroidery thread which is much finer than the standard polyester thread. I would definitely recommend it - I'll be using it again for other fine silk / chiffon fabrics. I also put my walking foot on my machine to minimise the movement of the fabric.  A combination of all these bits and pieces made sewing the silk very enjoyable.

I used the hairline hem technique which I've used more than once before, but this time it's a bit of a mess - not sure what I did wrong this time, but really wish I'd done a rolled hem by hand!!

You can't see in the pictures but there are pockets on both sides of the front. I probably didn't need to put them on because the fabric is so busy you can't see them, but I know they're there.

This time round I made a much better job of the collar stand. I drafted a collar stand template like Tasia recommended in her tutorials, marked the stitching line on the fabric and then followed on the machine. The silk was easy to tuck out of the way, resulting in the ends of the collar stand looking identical. Whoop, whoop!

The sad part is that the weather in this part of the world has just turned terribly cold - you know coat and gloves cold!  So my lovely silk shirt will probably have to hang in the wardrobe until the end of the year then the warmer weather rolls around again.  I had to put a merino on underneath to take these photos!

Anyway more about why I've blogged my lovely silk version before my muslin version of the Granville Shirt ... well you know that the Wellington Sewing Bloggers Network (WSBN) get up to all sorts of sewing fun that also includes fabric enabling and pattern shopping :-)  The Dreamstress put this idea to the group: "Could the Wellington Sewing Bloggers Network create a linking chain of sewing creations, where each person’s creation shares a fabric or pattern with the next person’s creation?"  And so the 0Degrees of Sewing Separation Challenge was born.

This was probably the hardest challenge we've had so far, it took a few months to sort out our connections and how they would link into a chain, but we got there in the end.  I am second in the chain matching the Granville Sewaholic pattern to Silly Billy Sewing who ended up being twinsees with Two Random Words.  The chain continues with Fifty Two Fancies using the same fabric as me to make a pattern shared with another.  You get the picture right!  For the month of April we are unraveling our 0Degrees of Sewing Separation with a blog tour.  If you are interested in reading about our antics head over to The Dreamstress who is updating her blog daily with each reveal.

More photos of my Silk Chiffon Granville over on my Flickr -->

Chiffon Marfy Top

This top is a really old make that I've been trying to decide whether I make again or not - this was my wearable muslin.

I picked up this colourful chiffon for $3p/m at a Fabric Direct Sale last year, and not just a couple of metres, oh no, there was 5 metres left of the roll so I got the whole thing! I paired it with some simple black chiffon that I got at the Arthur Toye closing down sale for $5p/m. So you can now see why I'm calling this my wearable muslin.

The pattern is Marfy 3450 from the 2014/15 catalogue, the first that I ever bought. What drew me to this pattern was the neckline with slits down the raglan sleeve. I cut the fabric exactly to the pattern in a size 46. The overall fit is fine, even the sleeve length is perfect.

After I cut the sleeves I realised that they were going to be very full and boofy! Not really me, so I removed 1.5" from each side of the sleeve at the cuff, grading it to 0 at the under arm edge. This gave me just enough to have a small gather around the cuff.

The cuff is folded in half, interfaced on the under half.  They are really comfy.

I used a french seam finish on all the side seams and sleeve seams.  For the hem I used a hairline seam technique on the machine using Gertie's video on You Tube.

... and it gives this really pretty finish.

The pattern didn't provide any indication of how the back closure was to be done. Marfy patterns don't have any instructions, but usually there are enough markings on the pattern to indicate what goes with what. I decided that I would use a couture technique that I learnt when making my free Marfy top HERE and keep the collar closed with a couple of hooks n eyes.

I was pretty happy with the top once I finished, given that I didn't have to make any major fit changes. I put it in my wardrobe and wore it a few times before I decided that there was just something about the hem that was bugging me. Back to the sewing table it went ... I needed to take some length off the front, oops forgot to note how much I removed, but it looks like about 1". At the back is only took enough off to remove the existing hem.

I think it has better balance now.

Conclusion: I do like how easy the top is to wear, but I'm not a fan of the front slits in the raglan sleeve seam. They are located in a place that is constantly moving so they don't sit nicely like the sample photo indicates. I think the top would be just as nice if the slits were sewn closed.

More photos on my Flickr -->