Jungle Marfy

I recently got introduced to Marfy patterns, quite by accident.  Carola posted a question on the 2013 RTW Fasters FB page back in September, wanting to know if anyone had sewn a Marfy pattern, because they don't come with instructions.  What?!  No instructions, who are these people ... internet research revealed they are an Italian indie pattern designer that hand cut all their patterns before despatching.

As the LFJ sew-along got going there were loads of Marfy patterns posted to the inspiration board, this is when I started to look closely at them.  Then in December Leisa announced that she would be hosting a sew-along with the free Marfy patterns - a top, a skirt and a jacket.  Without hesitation I signed up (really I'm not a free freak, but what better way to get introduced to a new pattern brand).  Anyway enough reading, let me show you some pictures....

The suggested fabric by Marfy is jersey, crepe de chine, chiffon or satin.  I had a few pieces of fabric in my stash that would have worked perfectly but seen everyone in the blogisphere was stepping out for Jungle January I settled on this polyester satin.  I picked this up on Trade Me (NZ version of EBay) maybe 12-18 months ago and thought it would be great for lining.  I figured that if it all turned to custard I hadn't lost anything.

I must admit I was a little nervous about sewing this fabric because it just moves everywhere!  Determine to conquer I carefully folded the fabric and pinned, pinned, pinned and pinned again (my silk pins are definitely my BFF).

I sewed this together using a combination of regular 'ol sewing machine seams and couture techniques.  Leisa consulted with Susan Khalje who shared this fantastic couture technique for creating the back opening - the back pattern piece is cut on the fold.  I can see that look of confusion on you face!  Have a read of this and all will become clear - I think it's brilliant and easy enough to create.

I lined both pieces of the collar with silk organsa and machine basted them in place.  It was just the right amount of structure for the collar to sit up but not be rough on my neck.  Look at this - I was so happy with the result.

I applied the collar to the top with the sewing machine, around three sides, but then hand-stitched the back of the collar to the top so there wasn't a line of machine stitching visible at the bottom of the collar.  It also just feels better!

I tried a hairline seam for the shoulder seams and a french seam for the sides.  I did a machine rolled hem around the bottom and half machine, half hand-stitch rolled hem for the armholes.

I made a couple of pattern adjustments:

1. Lengthen the body above the armpit.  Although now I'm not sure that I needed to lengthen as much as I just needed to slightly reshape the armhole so it didn't cut into the crease where my arm meets my body in the front.
2. Added 3/4" (2cm) to the bottom.
3. Cut and spread 1/2" (1.2cm) just off centre back to allow for the opening technique. 
4. Curved in the side seams slightly to give a little shape to the top

I feel next time I could take 1/2" (1.2cm) off the side seam of the front and back and it would still have enough room.  Oh, I cut a size 46 - patterns are available from sizes 42-58.

Looking at the design sketches it appears that elastic has been put into the bottom so when worn out the bottom sits on hips and behaves.  I decided not to put elastic in mine, so I could wear tucked in with a skirt or out with a pair of skinnies (maybe?)

Again I have learnt so much from the very talented Leisa over at A Challenging Sew and I'm looking forward to putting the jacket together in March.  This Marfy pattern was well drafted and actually quite easy to put together, with a bit of thought.

My pattern-a-holic self could help herself and ordered the 2014/15 Marfy catalogue. 

One part of me was curious as to what other detail was provided in the catalogue to help guide the sewing decisions, the other part of me couldn't pass up the 20 free patterns included.   The Marfy pattern pricing isn't any different from other indie patterns that range from NZ$25-$30 and for that matter we pay NZ$30 for a Vogue pattern.  

It's the postage that's the killer, but even so the cost per pattern included in the catalogue works out to be just NZ$4.75 - what a bargain right!?  Bonus - the catalogue is beautiful.

After the sew-along has finished I'm looking forward to challenging myself with a few of these patterns - going solo if it were (scary!)

More photos on my Flicr -->