Silk Kielo Wrap

Named is a Finnish indie pattern company that is all about clean lined simplicity with some interesting design detail. The Kielo wrap dress caught might attention with it's interesting take on a wrap but without adding any bulk and remaining very feminine.

Back in April when I made this we were heading into winter down-under but I was still keen to get a Kielo into my wardrobe that I could wear at least during autumn and spring.  So rather than a maxi dress of the original pattern design, I decided on a long top that I could wear with a pair of leggings and a jacket/cardigan would be more season appropriate.

I downloaded the PDF pattern from the Named website and assembled.  I made a couple of adjustments to the pattern:  the first was the obvious reduction in the length and the other was the dropping of the bust dart by 1/2", which is normal for me with most patterns.  I didn't do a muslin for this, but rather did a very basic tissue fit.

Based on the Named size chart I cut a size US8, purely based on the bust measurement.  This was spot on!  The top is quite fitted and is very well designed with the bust dart providing great shape to the upper body.

I picked up this cotton silk from The Fabric Warehouse, not particularly for this pattern but because it caught my eye while I was in store.  It was the perfect weight for this pattern, which suggests light woven or knit fabrics.  The instructions recommend finishing all the edges first, but I found that my overlocker doesn't deal with light weight fabrics very well so that wasn't a great option, especially because it slightly stretched all the edges because most are on the bias.

With such a lightweight fabric I didn't want to add machine stitching around the neckline or the armholes so I ended up turning them over twice and and stitching them in place with a simple slip stitch.

I love this top and have had it on a weekly rotation in my wardrobe ever since I finished it ... back in April.  It is a very simple pattern to make up and would recommend it to beginners.  I love the clean simple lines with the fitted bodice - it just feels rights.  I am definitely thinking about making a long version of the dress for summer.

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Belcarra and Elle

It's been a little quiet around the blog lately, but it's not that I haven't been sewing ... it's that I've been really really bad at taking photos.  Come the weekend and I really can't be bothered doing my hair or my face or going outside, because it is sooo cold!

With my hair freshly done, today was the day to get in front of the camera.  I'll start with a couple of wearable muslin ... the Belcarra top by Sewaholic and the Elle Pant by Style Arc.

Let's start with the Belcarra.  As soon as this pattern hit the world I knew I had to order it - I knew that this is one of those patterns that would be a staple in my wardrobe.

My body shape doesn't fit the Sewaholic profile, so I selected a size 10 based on my bust size and graded to a size 8 at the hips. 

Overall I think it's a damn fine fit.  I just wonder whether I need to remove a small amount of fabric to take into account my hollow upper chest, or whether it's meant to be a really relaxed fit?  I might ponder on that a little more.

I whipped this up using a 1m of cotton voile that I picked up from the remnant bin at The Fabric Warehouse for just $5.00.  Because I only had one metre of fabric I had to use black bias binding for the neck binding.  I made my own bias binding, that worked a treat.

I really like the length of the Belcarra, it just hits the body in the right place that can hide 100 sins.... like these pants.  These are the Elle Pant from Style Arc.  I ordered a size 12, based on my hip measurement.  Given that they were such a basic pant pattern I figured what could go wrong - well that's a rather naive attitude it seems.  Just look at this - not to hard now!!!

And this is with some adjustments after I sewed them together.  I trimmed about 1/4" off the front and back pattern pieces, so 1/2" per side.  I also trimmed about 1/4" off the inner thigh near the crutch, but I didn't alter the crutch at all as that seemed to fit comfortably.  But I've still got all that excess fabric around the crutch??? 

I think I've figured out that I've got too much fabric in the back pieces and could essentially just shave the back pattern pieces along the side seam, probably through to just below the knee - I wouldn't want the calf area to be any tighter.  I really do need to read more on pant fitting.  I took a Craftsy class but it was way too loose for me to grab anything really tangible.  If anyone can recommend a really good pant fitting book that would be amazing; while I've sewn a few jeans, a couple of leggings and now these the perfect fits is still alluding me.  Whatever adjustments I have made aren't really addressing my problem.

For now though these Elle pants are wearable with long tops.

More photos on my Flickr -->