Sunday 17 November 2013

Oh to be like Jackie O!

SJ's Brasilia Dress

This is the Brasilia Dress by House of Pinheiro.  A Jackie O inspired sheath dress that Rachel produced for the Fall for Cotton sew-along.

When I first saw Rachel's dress I thought it was to die for.  The inward darts at the bust are so unique - don't they just give the best shape to the dress.

SJ's Brasilia Dress

I found this cotton sateen at the Fabric Barn in Lower Hutt.  I really wasn't sure about fabric until this one jumped off the shelf and into my arms!  I've used a solid black cotton to highlight the side insets, and to balance it up I've used the solid black along the hem as well.  I love the result, it gives my rectangular body shape the illusion of a curvy waist - yay me.

SJ's Brasilia Dress
please ignore my sunburn lines - too much sun wearing my t-shirt.
The pattern came in one size, to match Rachel's measurements.  Luckily the waist and hips I didn't need to adjust but unfortunately I am not a C cup bust :(    I did my first SBA (small bust adjustment), reducing the bust by .5" and moved the apex of the darts by measuring the distance between the apex of each breast.  This worked out perfectly.

Because Rachel is so tall I had to remove some length from the torso area.  This felt a little strange because usually I have to add in length on most other patterns because of my height.  Anyway I removed 1.5" from the torso in addition to the .5" that was removed with the SBA.

I over complicated things a little trying to get the side insert correct after the SBA and removal of length and I've ended up with the front of the armhole looking a bit weird.  To overcome this I applied the bias binding so it formed a visable band around the armhole.  The weirdness is only noticeable when I move my arms backwards or stick my boobs out too far!

SJ's Brasilia Dress
a weird armhole shape goin on!
I dropped the front neckline by .5" which is just a personal preference for me - I like things to sit under my collar bone.

The black band around the bottom was cut 2" deep and folded in half and applied to the hem as you would a bias binding.  This gives the dress an appropriate length that I could wear to the office without feeling like I was bearing too much leg!

The pattern recommended an invisible zipper but I thought for my fabric and blocking of colour it would be nice to do an exposed zipper - I love this feature, although I can't see it once I've got the dress on.
SJ's Brasilia Dress

SJ's Brasilia Dress

Usually I line ALL my dresses, but I decided not to line the Brasilia.  It is very comfy and fits like a glove.  It will be ideal for those hot summer days in the office.

I was a bit late to the pattern testing party (yay instagram), but I am so pleased Rachel allowed me to test her pattern.  Overall I love it and would definitely consider making another one.

If you are interested in stitching up this dress, it is due to be released on Christmas Day.  Keep an eye on Rachel's blog

More photos on my Flickr -->

40 comments:

  1. Your dress is lovely. I really like how the black shows off your waist. I am sure this pattern will be very popular.

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    1. I agree it will be very popular - all versions that I've seen so far look great.

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  2. Wow this is gorgeous! Love how you added the black waist sections. Ot looks terrific on you and I can't wait for Rachel to release the pattern.

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    1. Thanks Catja. I wore it to the office today, usually a dress tells its true colours after it's been worn for a day - I am in love with it for sure.

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  3. I'm so glad you test the pattern. Your version is amazing...

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    1. Thanks Rachel, I feel so honoured and I'm in awe of your skills. I am in love with the front bust darts - the shape they give to the dress (and my body as a result) is AMAZING!

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  4. I think I said it on instagram already - but this frock is so beautiful! Well done you.

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    1. Thanks Trees. While I love a good challenge I was super nervous about this one.

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  5. Oh wow, this is stunning! It really gives you those curves and fits incredibly! You should be very proud :D

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    1. Thanks Johanna. I really want to make another one so I can fix up the armhole area! But in the meantime a little bolero makes me forget what I can't see hehe :)

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  6. What a fabulous job with this pattern. I'm testing it as well and I'm fighting a FBA. Giving me a bit of a fit.

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    1. I did do a bit of second guessing myself during the muslin phase but in reflection I think I over complicated the adjustments. In the end I thought that if it all turns to custard what have I lost, probably $30 and some time, but what have I learnt .... LOADS. Yay for a great result.

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  7. Wow those black inserts really do their job! I actually thought maybe you had pleated that stacked pattern into the dress, it's fabulous!

    Well done on getting such a great fit with your SBA - that dart is crazy, I would be too scared ;)

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    1. I didn't even notice the subtle 'stripe' in the fabric when I brought it, but I love what it has done for the dress. The front dart is amazing - so simple but so effective :)

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  8. Stunning dress and fit you perfectly :)

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    1. Thanks Hana, the pattern is simple but super effective design elements.

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  9. I'm really excited by this pattern and you've made it up beautifully.

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    1. Thanks Gail I'm sure it will be super popular once released.

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  10. This is a stunning dress with the black inserts, which give you a lovely shape.
    As always your finishing is immaculate.

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  11. Lovely dress, it looks great! I will definitely be downloading it when it is released and the best bit is that it is already quite close to my measurements, so less grading for me! :)

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    1. The good thing is that you could start fabric hunting now and you'll be all good to go once the pattern is released :)

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  12. Holy cow, this is fabulous! It looks absolutely amazing on you!

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  13. Oh wow, this dress looks amazing on you!

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  14. I love it! I also have a rectangle body shape and it's difficult to find patterns to suit and flatter that shape. Beautiful dress and beautiful work!

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    1. I would highly recommend trying this pattern. I really love how the illusion gives shape - I've been thinking about other variations of this dress that I can come up with.

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  15. The dress is gorgeous! And the pattern is amazing! I love Rachel's work. Oh, and great fabric choice - it is beautiful...

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    1. Thanks Sara. I love this pattern - I keep dreamin up different ways I can sew it up.

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  16. The dress is beautiful! Love the fabric and the fit. I am going to check out the pattern. Totally my style!

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    1. Thanks. It is such an easy make too - the most time consuming to begin with is the grading to fit. I can see more of these in my wardrobe for sure.

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