Sunday 8 December 2013

Two months, 38 hours and counting

Back in October I embarked on construction of My Little French Jacket and it has been a bit of a journey.  I started with a hiss and a roar and was ahead of the game, each week waiting anxiously for the next sew-along post to come out - but then came the sleeves and a pile of other sewing that I wanted to do.  So when I picked it up yesterday, determined to conquer the sleeves I realised that it had been three weeks since I did any work on it!  Just as well I was ahead of the game, because after successfully getting those sleeves in I'm back on track, yay!  So I thought I would share a bit about the journey so far ....

Fabric & Lining

I chose this cotton boucle and silk lining - both purchased from The Fabric Store here in Wellington.

LBJ #LBJ muslin finished, now to tidy it up

Muslin pieces all traced and thread traced.  I selected a pattern size according to my bust measurement and made the muslin without any adjustments.  The upper body of the muslin was a great fit, but I had to let out the princess seams in the front for my waist and hips.  Minor adjustments in the scheme of things.

LFJ

All the pattern pieces are thread traced on the stitch line.  The grainline is also thread traced.  The fabric is then placed over the lining and pinned on - this is where the grainline on the fabric is super useful.

The lining is then attached to the fabric by quilting lines.  This is the very first time I had heard or seen this technique.  I was super curious about how this wouldn't be visible from the outside - but it just get lost in the fabric, almost like magic!

Untitled

I marked my quilting lines with pins.  Oh and this is where a walking foot on the sewing machine comes into its own - the best investment I ever made!

LFJ

The seams of the fabric are then all sewn together and pressed open.   Those seams are sewn by machine but to ensure accuracy the seams are basted together first and then put under the machine foot.  The seams of the lining are then trimmed and hand stitched in place using a small fell stitch.  My fell stitches got better and better - the pic below is my sleeve which is looking pretty if I do say so myself :-)

Untitled

Now the sleeves are also set in my hand. This was a first for me and a little daunting but once I just followed all Leisa's wonderful instructions it was a breeze. 

Untitled

And here is where I'm at right now ... these two pics are both B&W :-)
Untitled

Untitled

Next, I need to work on closing the lining around the sleeve inset then it will be the hems, the trim and pockets.  I feel like I'm on the home straight now ....

Total time to date = 38 hours.

21 comments:

  1. Wow, Sandra! This looks like a huge task, but you are really creating a gorgeous jacket. Can't wait to see it when it is completed! :-)

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks Wendy, I think there is something really calming and therapeutic about hand sewing, and there is a lot of it with this one.

      Delete
  2. Replies
    1. Thanks Mrs C, might have to make me a ninja mask! After the conversation on FB about Mel's fabric I'm not sure that this is actually a boucle (I'm going with that for now), but I'd be interested to know what you think.

      Delete
  3. Wauw, this is super detailed and meticulous sewing! Looks great so far!!!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks Wendy, it has been a great project with lots to learn.

      Delete
  4. Wow! This is just beautiful - agree with Mrs C! You are a sewing ninja:D

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks - it does consume most of my leisure time lately, but I'm lovin it :-)

      Delete
  5. This is going to be beautiful, Your fabrics are lovely :)

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks Carolyn. I went with the cotton so it would be more of a summer jacket, and a bit more stable than a wool. It has been a great fabric to start with, I think a wool boucle (which is my next one) will be completely different to work with.

      Delete
  6. I'm definitely excited. I love Chanel, I love black so you already have a winner with me.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks Gail - I know right I'm lovin the Chanel style, it definitely sings to me :-) I know this won't be my last (gee and I haven't even finished yet!)

      Delete
  7. Sandra, your jacket is looking great. You are really in the home stretch now and will find that those last steps go quickly. Can't wait to see the finished product.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks so much Cissie, I have really enjoyed this project and can't wait to begin my next one already :-) It's a little addictive isn't it.

      Delete
  8. This is looking so good! I can't wait to see it in the end.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks Laura - I'm really running out of time if I want to finish by Christmas!

      Delete
    2. It is fast approaching! I have a lot to get done by then, and I'm not sure I'll get all of my projects done. :(

      Delete
  9. Beautiful! It's so unique and chic!

    ReplyDelete
  10. Replies
    1. This is the biggest sewing project that I've undertaken, and I've really enjoyed every step.

      Delete