Cambie Couture

Earlier this year I enrolled in my first Craftsy course 'The Couture Dress'.  I watched all the videos before starting but couldn't wait for the course pattern to arrive, so decided to use the Cambie Sewaholic Pattern. This is my fabulous new dress which I have entitled my Cambie Couture.

I so need to stop taking photos at the end of the day after I've worn it for a day - all you can see is sitting wrinkles!

Susan Khalje is an amazing teacher, I really enjoyed her teaching style and techniques along the way.  She effortlessly talks to the camera like she is talking to you sitting right in front of her.  I learnt so much in this class that it has really changed the way I sew. 

This was the first garment that I attached an interlining as well as lining.  It gives the dress such a quality feel when it's finished and the dress sits beautifully.

The final product is just as I imaged it.  I love the subtle pattern on the fabric and the green is perfect.  The little black dress with touch of colour!  Maybe I just need a green belt instead of a black one?

I am definitely making the Cambie again (great pattern) and I'm already onto my next dress using the couture techniques.

Meet my new Janome

A couple of weeks ago my trusty 20+ year Elna sewing machine felt far too over worked and died.  I loved my Elna, it's been everywhere I have and lasted the distance, probably more than I ever thought it would of when I brought it.

This time I've brought a Janome.  Which I must say is very similar in style to my Elna 5000 but just with a few more modern features and functions.  Thank goodness because it hasn't taken me long at all to become very comfortable with it's operation - it wasn't like learning everything all over again.

This baby is my all time favourite feature (now that my eyesight isn't what it was 20 years ago!) this is the automatic needle threader - oh and so easy to use.  Pull down that little white leaver to the left in the picture, loop thread across then push back up to recess into the machine and hey presto!

My next most favourite feature is the scissors - one press of that little button and the thread automatically cuts, so all I have to do is lift the foot and remove the fabric.  No more wasted thread all over my floor that my vacuum hates.

If this machine lasts the distance of my last one, the investment would equate to $49.95 per year for the ability to make my own wardrobe.  I feel like I am in heaven.

A few of my favourite things

Although I have a sewing kit that has gradually grown over the years, there are a few items that I really love to have.  These are the little things that just make the sewing that wee bit more delightful, especially when you are hand sewing.  I thought I would share my current top five items.

My little embroidery scissors, which I have had for years - purchased when I went through a cross-stitch craze.  It was only in January that it dawned on me that they were sitting in the cupboard and I should reallocate them to my sewing kit!  They are truly delightful to use.

Next is my newly acquired set of embroidery needles.  After using a general, probably cheap, pack of needles that someone would buy if they didn't know any better (yep me), these John James feel like the Roles Royce of needles. 

This is my recent discovery - bees wax.  Applying this to the thread when hand sewing is amazing, especially if you then run the thread under the iron after waxing.  This not only makes the thread strong but I find it also prevents the thread from twisting terribly.  Again makes hand sewing a pleasure.

This is my funky pin cushion.  It's about 12cm wide and is the ideal size for me.  I really don't like fluffing around trying to pick the pins out of their container.  This baby is big enough to contain a decent amount of pins that are easily accessible, but not too big so it can sit to on the right hand side of my sewing machine foot, making it easy to 'pull and poke' the pins as I sew.

Lastly but by no means at the bottom of my list is my brand new Clover tracing wheel.  As you can see it is a double wheel so it can apply the seam allowance as you trace.  Whether you have to add the seam allowance or if you want to mark the sewing lines because the pattern already provides a seam allowance.  Both wheels can be removed and the distance between then either increased or decreased with seven holes into which they can be placed.

What are your top five favourite sewing things right now?  Not necessarily your 'must have' but your 'love having' items.

Preparation for the year ahead

In January I wrote a blog post on reallocation of resources - well I revisited our event resource room on Friday to gather yet more calico (muslin) in preparation for my year ahead, knowing that before too long things will get busy with work and kids.

Saturday afternoon I got the iron out and neatly ironed each piece in half and folded them up all nicely ready for the projects ahead.  I swear this lot will probably last me a year or two or more!

Sunday I headed off to the Global Fabrics 50% sale (last day - talk about cutting it fine), with a few patterns in hand.  Here's a peek at the fabrics added to my pile.

A couple of cuts of NZ Merino for making some basic Renfrew tops for winter.

The top fabric is a lovely embroidered cotton which I've paired with a cotton lycra solid.  These two beautiful fabrics are destined to make a dress (something along the lines of this one on my pinboard)

This photo doesn't do any justice to this piece of fabric which is a fine wool, destine for a jacket.  However, I have a few projects on the sewing list before I will get to these.

Do you plan ahead or just make a trip to the fabric store when you're ready for the next garment?  How do you decide what next or do you have a list of things a mile long like me?

Morphing patterns together

This was one of those projects that I began in 2012 but didn't finish until just recently.  Actually by recently I mean 3 weeks ago! It's a top that I morphed together from two patterns, and made some tweaks here and there to get exactly what I was looking for.

The base pattern is New Look 6713   The pattern provided for an a-symmetrical or cow-neck front, neither of which was what I wanted, so I took the a-symmetrical pattern piece and cut it on the fold at the centre front so both sides were the same.


On the back I didn't just want two straps which would look as if I was going to the beach instead of work, so I took a back pattern piece from another pattern and used it as a template to create the back, matching the side and shoulder seam pieces to the front piece.

On the back I inserted a zip and removed the need for elastic.  This meant I had to slightly alter the width of the pattern across the back so it wouldn't hang but would provide a snug fit.

The fabric is gorgeous, a very light weight cotton (could even be bamboo??) which I've fully lined.  It was a piece that I had in my stash - I think I originally brought it to make a dress, but then changed my mind!  I have already worn it a few times, either on it's own with a simple straight skirt (as you see in the photos) or just yesterday with black skinny pants and a jacket.

Haha! this isn't exactly the most flattering of photos but all the same is a good shot of the full front of the top.  I would probably make this pattern again as it is a versatile piece for my work wardrobe, but next time I would lower the neck line in the front and take about half an inch off from around the empire line so it has a firmer fit.

I'm interested to hear from others on their success with morphing patterns to get what you want rather than looking for a whole new pattern.

Ready to Wear Fasting

I have joined a group of dedicated sewers who have made a pledge not to buy Ready-to-Wear  (RTW) clothing for one year in favor of making their clothes!  (with the exception of our underwear, shoes and accessories).

 

This is the brain child of Sarah at Goodbye Valentino, whose story many of us can relate to.

Whilst I'm not one to shy away from a good day shopping this will just be in the fabric stores instead of the clothing stores.  Although a visit to the clothing shops is always good for the inspiration, and checking out the construction techniques used.

While we're speaking of shopping, Global Fabrics have a 50% Off Sale for the next few days (stores in NZ and OZ).   I love this fabric store, it has an array of fabrics that I don't see in other stores and have a focus on natural organic fabric.

The fabric for my recent Milia dress was purchased on sale for just $8.00 per metre down from $16.00 per metre.  I also purchased another piece of fabric which I am currently making into a Cambie Dress and some lovely silk organza to use for the interlining.

I'm itching to get back to the store before the sale ends this weekend.

I hope you will join and support me in my journey of RTW Fasting this year.

Re-allocation of Resources: what an idea!

Isn't it funny how sometimes it never occurs to reallocate resources from one part of life to another.  I own an event management company and sitting in my resource room was metres and metres of calico (or otherwise referred to by sewers as muslin), which we had purchased and used for an event a few years ago.  After the event we took it off the walls, folded it up and stored it for the next event where we might need it.

In the mean time, I am searching the internet for where I could purchase some cheap muslin for my sewing projects.   I figured that if I purchased in bulk it should be cheaper and I would get a few projects.

An then it dawned on me - I have metres of the fabric in the event resource room doing nothing, and even if I just got 1% of what is there that will last me at least a year of sewing projects.  So to the resource room and vol-la, just what I was looking for. 

The model here is our new little puppy "Jayjay", at just 3 months old he is a tiny maltese chihuahua cross, who thought it would be great fun to play in my fabric as I was ironing it.

All pressed and folded ready for my next sewing project - which by the way is a Cambie dress - I know, I'm all about the dress at the moment.

Note to self:  what other resource can I find and re-allocate to my sewing box?
Another thought:  wonder if I could sell this stuff and turn resource into cash for more dress fabric?