Cotton Eyelet Couture

I feel in love with this cotton eyelet fabric on one of my visits to Global Fabrics.  I wasn't too excited about it being brown but immediately found this dark chocolate cotton lycra blend - it just seemed perfect for my next couture dress using my skills acquired from the Craftsy Couture Dress class. 

The end result ... a beautiful fitting dress that I absolutely love - the only question now is what shoes to wear!

However, I must fess that I only put the silk organsa interlining on the top and midriff band.  I felt the cotton lycra fabric I used for the skirt was already heavy enough that it just needed a lining.   Doing this also balanced the weight in the two fabrics. The inside of the dress is also two toned. 

I inserted the lining completely by hand - although this takes longer it gives me far more control than trying to machine it in ... and far more satisfying (for me anyway).

Both were taken from my fabric stash.  The top lining was left over from my pattern morphing top and the bottom, I'm not sure what I originally bought it for!

The pattern is this Vogue Options Misse's Dress V8633.  Because I'm more of a rectangle shape I had to make adjustments to the midriff band and skirt.  While the pattern isn't recommended for the rectangular body shape I think that it has given my body some shape and gives the illusion that I do have a waist!

 

More photos - just 'cos I can

(shoes are undecided so none at this stage)

Love the stand up collar

The shape of the sleeve balances up the hips

When it gets a bit cooler I can pair this with my Minrou Jacket :-)

Robson Pattern

I'm sure by now you've seen the new Robson Trench from Sewaholic Patterns.  I'm so exciting my pattern arrived today in the mail (having a party on the inside!)

Super impressed with the delivery times from Canada to NZ - less than a week I think!  So I guess you will all know what I will be doing this Easter Holiday!

I've taken a bit of inspiration from Katie Holmes for fabric, but want to go for a darker bronze brown, and most definitely shiny :-)

I really like the idea of lining the coat so I can wear it in the winter months as well, so thinking of using the same technique as Novita (Very Purple Person) and sew the lining to each piece as you would an interlining.  This may also give the coat the 'special' feel that I'm looking for.  Once I've made the first one I might be brave enough to attempt to line the coat with a full lining or hope that Tasia has enough requests for this that she might blog some tips on 'how to' before then.

Okay, just need to find some time between now and Thursday to get o the fabric store. 

Cambie Couture

Earlier this year I enrolled in my first Craftsy course 'The Couture Dress'.  I watched all the videos before starting but couldn't wait for the course pattern to arrive, so decided to use the Cambie Sewaholic Pattern. This is my fabulous new dress which I have entitled my Cambie Couture.

I so need to stop taking photos at the end of the day after I've worn it for a day - all you can see is sitting wrinkles!

Susan Khalje is an amazing teacher, I really enjoyed her teaching style and techniques along the way.  She effortlessly talks to the camera like she is talking to you sitting right in front of her.  I learnt so much in this class that it has really changed the way I sew. 

This was the first garment that I attached an interlining as well as lining.  It gives the dress such a quality feel when it's finished and the dress sits beautifully.

The final product is just as I imaged it.  I love the subtle pattern on the fabric and the green is perfect.  The little black dress with touch of colour!  Maybe I just need a green belt instead of a black one?

I am definitely making the Cambie again (great pattern) and I'm already onto my next dress using the couture techniques.

Meet my new Janome

A couple of weeks ago my trusty 20+ year Elna sewing machine felt far too over worked and died.  I loved my Elna, it's been everywhere I have and lasted the distance, probably more than I ever thought it would of when I brought it.

This time I've brought a Janome.  Which I must say is very similar in style to my Elna 5000 but just with a few more modern features and functions.  Thank goodness because it hasn't taken me long at all to become very comfortable with it's operation - it wasn't like learning everything all over again.

This baby is my all time favourite feature (now that my eyesight isn't what it was 20 years ago!) this is the automatic needle threader - oh and so easy to use.  Pull down that little white leaver to the left in the picture, loop thread across then push back up to recess into the machine and hey presto!

My next most favourite feature is the scissors - one press of that little button and the thread automatically cuts, so all I have to do is lift the foot and remove the fabric.  No more wasted thread all over my floor that my vacuum hates.

If this machine lasts the distance of my last one, the investment would equate to $49.95 per year for the ability to make my own wardrobe.  I feel like I am in heaven.

A few of my favourite things

Although I have a sewing kit that has gradually grown over the years, there are a few items that I really love to have.  These are the little things that just make the sewing that wee bit more delightful, especially when you are hand sewing.  I thought I would share my current top five items.

My little embroidery scissors, which I have had for years - purchased when I went through a cross-stitch craze.  It was only in January that it dawned on me that they were sitting in the cupboard and I should reallocate them to my sewing kit!  They are truly delightful to use.

Next is my newly acquired set of embroidery needles.  After using a general, probably cheap, pack of needles that someone would buy if they didn't know any better (yep me), these John James feel like the Roles Royce of needles. 

This is my recent discovery - bees wax.  Applying this to the thread when hand sewing is amazing, especially if you then run the thread under the iron after waxing.  This not only makes the thread strong but I find it also prevents the thread from twisting terribly.  Again makes hand sewing a pleasure.

This is my funky pin cushion.  It's about 12cm wide and is the ideal size for me.  I really don't like fluffing around trying to pick the pins out of their container.  This baby is big enough to contain a decent amount of pins that are easily accessible, but not too big so it can sit to on the right hand side of my sewing machine foot, making it easy to 'pull and poke' the pins as I sew.

Lastly but by no means at the bottom of my list is my brand new Clover tracing wheel.  As you can see it is a double wheel so it can apply the seam allowance as you trace.  Whether you have to add the seam allowance or if you want to mark the sewing lines because the pattern already provides a seam allowance.  Both wheels can be removed and the distance between then either increased or decreased with seven holes into which they can be placed.

What are your top five favourite sewing things right now?  Not necessarily your 'must have' but your 'love having' items.

Preparation for the year ahead

In January I wrote a blog post on reallocation of resources - well I revisited our event resource room on Friday to gather yet more calico (muslin) in preparation for my year ahead, knowing that before too long things will get busy with work and kids.

Saturday afternoon I got the iron out and neatly ironed each piece in half and folded them up all nicely ready for the projects ahead.  I swear this lot will probably last me a year or two or more!

Sunday I headed off to the Global Fabrics 50% sale (last day - talk about cutting it fine), with a few patterns in hand.  Here's a peek at the fabrics added to my pile.

A couple of cuts of NZ Merino for making some basic Renfrew tops for winter.

The top fabric is a lovely embroidered cotton which I've paired with a cotton lycra solid.  These two beautiful fabrics are destined to make a dress (something along the lines of this one on my pinboard)

This photo doesn't do any justice to this piece of fabric which is a fine wool, destine for a jacket.  However, I have a few projects on the sewing list before I will get to these.

Do you plan ahead or just make a trip to the fabric store when you're ready for the next garment?  How do you decide what next or do you have a list of things a mile long like me?

Morphing patterns together

This was one of those projects that I began in 2012 but didn't finish until just recently.  Actually by recently I mean 3 weeks ago! It's a top that I morphed together from two patterns, and made some tweaks here and there to get exactly what I was looking for.

The base pattern is New Look 6713   The pattern provided for an a-symmetrical or cow-neck front, neither of which was what I wanted, so I took the a-symmetrical pattern piece and cut it on the fold at the centre front so both sides were the same.


On the back I didn't just want two straps which would look as if I was going to the beach instead of work, so I took a back pattern piece from another pattern and used it as a template to create the back, matching the side and shoulder seam pieces to the front piece.

On the back I inserted a zip and removed the need for elastic.  This meant I had to slightly alter the width of the pattern across the back so it wouldn't hang but would provide a snug fit.

The fabric is gorgeous, a very light weight cotton (could even be bamboo??) which I've fully lined.  It was a piece that I had in my stash - I think I originally brought it to make a dress, but then changed my mind!  I have already worn it a few times, either on it's own with a simple straight skirt (as you see in the photos) or just yesterday with black skinny pants and a jacket.

Haha! this isn't exactly the most flattering of photos but all the same is a good shot of the full front of the top.  I would probably make this pattern again as it is a versatile piece for my work wardrobe, but next time I would lower the neck line in the front and take about half an inch off from around the empire line so it has a firmer fit.

I'm interested to hear from others on their success with morphing patterns to get what you want rather than looking for a whole new pattern.